Route Guide: Tongariro Crossing

Added 18 February 200218 February 2002 by MatthewMatthew.
No revisions. View history

The Tongariro Crossing explores the alien volcanic landscape at the core of the North Island.

Although deservedly famous as the best day walk in New Zealand, the Crossing is a potentially treacherous tramping route, very exposed to poor weather. Take warm and waterproof clothing. In winter you will need snowcraft skills and appropriate equipment. On a fine day, the views are breath taking, stretching as far as Taranaki, almost 140km away. On a poor day think twice before departing: transport operators may not run, and you likely won't see anything anyway. If you can, set aside some days and wait the weather out before departing.

The volcanic plateau comprises two massive volcanoes: Ruapehu (2797m) and Tongariro (1967m) — the young, symmetrical cone of Ngauruhoe (2287m) is considered to be a vent of the Tongariro Volcano. The Tongariro Crossing explores the Tongariro-Ngauruhoe complex. It is not a difficult or especially long walk, although one section is quite strenuous. Near the beginning, a 45-minute hand-over-hand climb over raw, black basalt has most walkers sweating and pausing for breath. But once that's over, walking is fairly easy.

Two hours before the track end, the Ketetahi Hut is reached. It's possible to stay the night here and make an overnight trip of it. This is not an easier option unless you have a friend to carry all the extra gear you'll need! It is however a beautiful spot to spend the evening, with an expansive view from the steam rising over the nearby Ketetahi Springs across to Lakes Rotoaira and Taupo in the distance. The Te Mari Craters make for an excellent untracked day walk from here. Camping is only allowed at the designated campsites at Ketetahi and Mangatepopo Huts.

Unlike New Zealand's other popular tracks, the Abel Tasman, Milford, and Routeburn, there are no controls on the numbers of walkers. Consequently, on a sunny summer day a continuous stream of people threads from one end of the track to the other. Because of the high numbers walking the track and the delicacy of the environment at the track edges, it is important that walkers keep to the formed track. Note that there are no toilets or drinkable water supplies between Soda Springs and Ketetahi Hut.

Access

The two ends of the Crossing are widely spaced, but transport runs regularly to both ends from Taupo, Turangi, Whakapapa Village, and National Park. Tickets are easily available, and may be purchased from local information centres. The southern end of the Crossing is to the west of the National Park at the Mangatepopo Road end off SH47. The northern end is at the Ketetahi Road end off SH46. Most walkers start at Mangatepopo to take advantage of a slight height differential. This means you start your morning walking into the sun, and often the best views are over your shoulder. However, if you start at Ketetahi, you will be walking against the stream, which could mean a lot of pleasantries to exchange.

Mangatepopo Road end - South Crater: 2 hr, medium + tops travel

Departing from the shelter (toilet nearby), a wide and smooth track rises gently up the tussock valley, while the dark cone of Ngauruhoe in the distance lends an air of expectation. A trail leads off to the right, providing access to Whakapapa Village (3 hours), and just moments later, a turn-off to the left leads to Mangatepopo Hut.

Beyond here, the valley becomes filled with fresh basalt rubble, and the track becomes rockier, hemmed against the northern valley wall. A clamber alongside a small stream, and the track opens onto a long basin curling around the foot of Ngauruhoe. The Soda Springs, a ten-minute side trip from here, are pretty falls edged with flowers, an oasis of greenery in the otherwise barren environment.

Beyond here, the track climbs out of the valley directly up the volcano's steep face. While a track is marked, one path is as good as another over the rough basalt. The climb takes around 45 minutes to ascend 250m, and rewards with panoramic views from the scoria saddle, including the distant cone of Taranaki to the west and, of course, the very much nearer cone just to the south. A side track ascends Ngauruhoe: a hard 2-3 hours up, and an exhilarating 15 minutes back down!

South Crater - Emerald Lakes: 1½ hr, easy-medium + tops travel

The track opens onto the flat, yellow expanse of South Crater, crossing it, and climbing onto the low ridge opposite. Over the back of this ridge are good views of the strange and desolate Oturere Valley. Here, windblown ash fills the gaps in the rubble, creating a moonscape of smooth arcs and jagged edges.

Climbing easily along the ridge, the track bursts unexpectedly upon Red Crater, a disturbingly primordial rift of dark red and charcoal grey. A striking feature of the opposite wall is the hollow shell of a dike. Molten magma once pushed through these ash layers along a vertical crack in the wall. When the magma drained away, only the hardened surface remained. Steam rises from the sides of this active crater and sulphur lingers in the air.

The track drops down a scree slope to the pretty Emerald Lakes, old explosion craters flooded and coloured with minerals leached from the surrounding rock. Sulphur stains and steaming fumaroles are visible here.

Emerald Lakes - Ketetahi Hut, 1½ hr easy + tops travel

The track descends easily onto the scoria-dotted floor of Central Crater where the track to Oturere Hut leads off to the right. Across the wide crater, as you climb over the north rim, there is an excellent view back south of a large black lava flow that has spilled out of Red Crater.

Over the rim, the track sidles past the wide, round Blue Lake and eases into the V of the Ketetahi Valley. The track sidles beneath the large, hidden disc of North Crater through an alpine herb field, lazily dropping in long zigzags to the sunny balcony of Ketetahi Hut. Situated here is the first toilet in a long while, so be prepared to queue.

Ketetahi Hut - Ketetahi Road end, 2 hr easy

Beyond the hut, the herb fields give way to tussock, and the track passes beneath the Ketetahi Springs. Once a popular bathing spot, these springs are on private land, and there is currently no public access. Where the track crosses the blue-stained creek beneath the springs, there is a tantalising view into this steaming fissure.

A stepped track descends gently through the sub-alpine shrubs, and eventually drops into forest. Just here, there is a good view of a 450-year-old lava flow from Te Mari that has cut through the forest. After more steps, the track becomes muddy and begins to meander, soon coming alongside a small, babbling stream, and eventually opening onto the car park, with shelter and toilets.

Popular tags
Tongariro ruapehu ngauruhoe crossing